CAMPING THE KIWI WAY

We set off on a radiantly sunny day in late March for our two week trip down south. The trip was timed to celebrate a birthday, visit family and friends, and to have some biking, hiking and kayaking adventures. 

Once the BaseCamp was packed, the gas bottle filled, and the kayaks and bikes loaded— Steve and I were on our way from the port hills of Nelson to the start point of our journey. Luckily we made it to the Top 10 campground in Hanmer by 5pm, just in time to set up camp before the rain started. In no time we were soaking in the hot springs and enjoying the feeling that our holiday was underway at last!

Dunedin

Day 2 of our trip was a long haul all the way from Hanmer to Dunedin where we set up camp at the Dunedin Holiday Park and enjoyed one day of warmth and sunshine and some outdoor fun with family. The cold southerly blast suddenly hit the next day, on the dot of 9am, lowering the temperature by several degrees, and reminding us that we were in a direct line with the Antarctic weather system. 

Despite the weather, it was a fun few days camping out by St Clair beach, with Dunedin Arts Festival events to keep us entertained in the evenings, and some excellent food at nearby cafes. We highly recommend the Italian pizza at Esplanade right on St Clair beach (above), and Thai food at Spirit House, just a few doors along — both with an immediate connection to the surf rolling in on the beach below, through their front windows — and both offering imaginative vegetarian options on their menus. 

Butchers Dam, near Alexandra

Rose at Butchers Dam, near Alexandra

Wānaka

Day 5. Keeping a close eye on weather reports we stocked up on supplies, and headed over to Wānaka next where we were lucky to be able to set up camp with friends at Albert Town. This was a spectacular time of year to be in this alpine landscape, with the glow of autumnal colours, and the deep, glassy stillness of the lake for our kayaking expeditions. Highlights included a paddle down from Dublin Bay to the Stevensons Arm of the lake, in pristine conditions (above), followed the next day by a trip out on the lake from Glendhu Bay around Roys Peninsula. 

The next day the weather forecast was spot on, and the strong winds determined that riding the bike trail was the best option. It was an exhilarating ride all the way from Albert Town, down the bike trail along the Clutha River, and then a gentle pedal around the lake front, with coffee stops along the way. From there the single trail track leads you up around the cliffs all the way around to Glendhu Bay. 

The timing was perfect — the rain hit just as the bike was loaded onto the ute and we headed into Wānaka to get the best ever Indian street food from the Delhi Hutt Food Truck in the industrial area around the back of the township. The food is prepared by the most inspiring young couple who work tirelessly in an impossibly tiny kitchen to produce their take-out deliciousness. By the time we had sat under their umbrella and enjoyed a mango lassi while they cooked and chatted, the rain subsided, and in no time we were down at the lake edge enjoying our picnic in the last of the sun on a blanket on the edge of the sand. 

We had hoped with the arrival of the windy conditions that we would get out on the lake the next evening for some sailing, however it was in fact so windy that we had to sit in the pub instead and just talk about what fun it might have been. 

We had some really memorable meals with friends during our stay, including Taco Tuesday at Amigos in Wānaka, followed by a drive over to Arrowtown the next evening to the Fork and Tap to enjoy a heartwarming Irish music jam session with some seriously good local musicians who were friends of our host in Wānaka. In fact, we were spoilt for choice this week with Festival of Colour shows in the evenings, and events during the day to choose from. 

Daily bike rides along the Clutha with Patch, the springer spaniel, were very fun, and I was delighted when he shepherded me around Deans Bank MTB track, which runs from the end of the campground as you leave town. Our host Paul had been instrumental in building the trail, which is noted for its flow and nice technical details, and Patch knew it like the back of his paw. Glimpses of the river as you weave up through the forest are spectacular, and the ride across the tussocks leads you back to the final descent into the park. After the ride you really have earned your coffee and almond croissant from Pembroke Patisserie, which is so popular there are queues at peak times.

Lake Hawea

The 40 minute ride along the bike track from Albert Town to Lake Hawea is a great way to enjoy the landscape (above), and I discovered Sailz café in Hawea is the perfect refuelling stop. This café serves such delicious spanakopita, that I was compelled to return the next day for another round. From Sailz the bike track is a flowy ride with just a few short hills to manoeuvre until you reach the last bay before John’s Track takes you up and around the end. The ride along the trail above the lake that day was spectacular to say the least — in perfect, sunny, calm autumn conditions. 

We cooled off with a swim in the lake, which was so cold that it took a good 15 minutes before I was finally immersed — I took the slow approach, one centimetre of skin at time. Meanwhile, Francesca, the Italian water gal was in doggy heaven as she paddled her way off into the distance, feigning deafness when we called to her. 

What took our breath away next though, was the sudden arrival from the sky of a surreal flying figure running towards us across the water. A paraglider from the cliffs above us, who landed dramatically on the lake and flawlessly stepped onto the beach. Followed some 10–15 minutes later by the second arrival. Not for the faint-hearted.

Lake Benmore

The return journey was decided by the weather, with a disturbed flow of air bringing heavy rain to the West Coast, and fine weather inland. We bade farewell to our wonderful Wānaka friends and headed away collecting birthday cake treats at Tarras Country Café on our journey up to Lake Benmore (above). The trip over Lindis Pass was spectacular, and although still fine, we could feel that the cold front was on its way. We stopped at Sailors Cutting and had a look at the campground, which seemed largely populated with empty caravans. 

Realising that there was an exciting section of the Alps to Ocean to ride from here, we downloaded my bike, and I rode the 16kms of single track bike trail that wound its way around the cliffs of Lake Benmore (below).

Its remoteness and beauty makes for a really memorable ride, but being on my own I took care not to marvel too often at the views, as the drop-offs down to the lake were breathtaking in places. Steve met me on the track high above the Benmore Dam, and by this time the wind was picking up and the weather was changing. 

We camped that night in the Loch Laird Campground (below), on the Waitaki River below the Benmore Dam, which was eerily deserted. 

While there were a number of caravans with fairy lights and clotheslines, only one other couple were in residence that night. The rain started around 7pm and then the chill. We could feel that not far away there was probably snow.

Aoraki

The next day was cold and wet, and we packed up camp and headed towards Aoraki/Mt Cook. And how lucky we were with the weather — the mountains had a fresh coating of snow which we could see in the distance as we drove into the Glentanner Campground. Having set up camp we headed up to the village and did a short hike up Kea Point Track which ends at a viewing deck with close-up views of Mt Sefton, the sudden roar of an avalanche reminding us of the alpine environment we were in. 

The next morning we were very excited to awake to see the first rays of sun creep over Aoraki/Mt Cook with the beauty of Lake Pukaki below us. We enjoyed breakfast with those most spectacular views, and then drove first thing to the village to get parking before the crowds arrived. From there we hiked up the Hooker Valley Track, before coming to the viewing point of Mueller Glacier and the first swing bridge which crosses the Hooker River. There are two more swing bridges to cross on the trail, before finally arriving at the glacier lake with amazing views of Aoraki/Mt Cook (above), the Hooker Glacier and the Southern Alps. We were so fortunate to have done this walk which is now closed, as the first bridge was badly damaged in a recent storm and the track is closed for now. 

After returning to Glentanner for lunch we then headed to the Blue Lakes and Tasman Glacier View Track which takes you up to views of the lower Haupapa/Tasman Glacier and lake and the mountains at the head of the valley. The hot showers in the lovely new facilities at Glentanner were very welcome at the end of the day. 

Lake Tekapo

The drive the next morning as we headed out along Lake Pukaki was stunning with its glistening glacial turquoise waters stretching for miles. Heading towards Tekapo the trip was only marred by the delay due to a crash caused by an out of control camper van, which closed the road for a period of time. Fortunately there were no fatalities. We reached Tekapo Holiday Park by early afternoon, and after setting up camp, we were straight onto the water with our kayaks to make the most of the still conditions (photo p6). Back at camp, we were able to catch the last of the sun over drinks and snacks at the picnic table (above), followed by more lovely hot showers to warm us up.

Hanmer

Our last night on holiday was back at Hanmer Top 10 where we started the journey, with another soak in the springs to end the day, and plenty to reminisce about. We were very lucky with our trip that the weather stayed fine when we needed it, and we were able to adjust our activities and expectations according to the conditions. 

The South Island has so many places to discover and endless possibilities for new adventures. Needless to say, we are already planning the next trip! 🏕️

Photos ©2025 Rose Campbell & Steve Johnston