10 summer 2024 Summer 2024 ISSUE 10 BUY PDF ToC Click on image for full view and caption GO TO Springing He’d read about the pass but had never been over it. Danseys Pass Margaret Earle Danseys Pass While we were exploring the geosites in the Waitaki Valley, we saw several signs to Danseys Pass. My partner, Graham, commented that he’d read about the pass but had never been over it. So we decided to take a detour to have a look at the beginning of the pass. Of course, we couldn’t resist it and headed through the pass towards Naseby. The pass is not too high but the road is not suitable for towing.The scenery is spectacular with an awesome sense of remoteness. But don’t take a caravan or large vehicle over it. ©2024 Margaret Earle Up Up 10 Summer 2024 , p 13

10 summer 2024 Summer 2024 ISSUE 10 BUY PDF ToC Click on image for full view and caption GO TO Springing share the pleasures of camping far and wide A summer of content: editorial Miriam Richardson While we travel in a country beset by discontent, we can lift our eyes to the hills, and see the enduring beauty and majesty of the country we live in. The long view. Someone asked why the free places don’t look as wonderful as the photos she had seen, and the answer is we choose where to look, where to snap, and what to share. A nondescript bit of land— scrubby plants, struggling to survive, and rabbit holes. We aren’t blind to the rough, but we focus elsewhere. We might be parked in a line-up of other campers, but we can still look to the hills, the lake, the sea, the clouds or the magnificent night sky ( aurora , what is out there ). Our new freedom camping laws are a dog’s breakfast; plenty of scope for discontent. But unless (or until) there is an opportunity to take positive action, we can feast our eyes on those hills and skies and share the pleasures of camping far and wide. ◊ Tiaki mai, tiaki atu, Miriam Richardson, Editor The Lindis Crossing freedom camping spot, Central Otago is a very nondescript bit of land — rabbit holes, weeds, scrubby plants struggling to survive. But behind are those magnificent hills. The fabulous dusk sky. Images: ©2024 Miriam Richardson Up Up 10 Summer 2024 , p 4

10 summer 2024 Summer 2024 ISSUE 10 BUY PDF ToC Click on image for full view and caption GO TO Springing craft shopping, toasting marshmallows STOP and STAY Exploring Clandyboye Linda Butler All Points Camping enjoyed craft shopping, toasting marshmallows in the fire pit and Devonshire teas at the Milford POP. ◊ ©2024 Linda Butler Up Up 10 Summer 2024 , p 21

Summer 2024 ISSUE 10 BUY PDF CONTENTS Issue 10, Summer 2024 Cover image: Waiorongomai Valley ©2024 Greg Lokes Editorial Come Camping Stop and Stay Contribute About TESTING DYNAMIC ISSUE 10 Table of contents Double-digit highways Next SH 32/41, West of Lake Taupo Next SH45 The Surf Coast Highway, Te Ika a Maui North Island Next SH60 Richmond to Collingwood, Tasman Next Butchers Dam aurora Next We got bogged: “Because it’d be funner,” he said Next And people wonder why I like camping Next Springing Next What a difference a day makes Next Waitaki first day Next Ōtaki Rivermouth Next NIWA summer forecast Next Camp Fest ‘25 Next All roads lead to Camp Fest Next I really like the Waiouru Army Museum Next Camping in Tairāwhiti this summer Next Freedom camping news Next Self-containment warrant cards: Which ones are valid? Next But I am not freedom camping… Next A roof-top tent Next Revolutionizing Kiwi camping with Fix’n’Rail Next What is out there Next This is the summer to visit Queenstown Next The Wairau Next Getting your camping vehicle certified Next Dealing with a caravan flat Next Sunday morning caravan Lego Next Old Blue Next Kea attack Next First time out with my new tent Next Thornbury-Aparima Bridge Reserve Next Temple Stream Next Marfells Beach Next Exploring Clandyboye Next Being able to get out into nature Next Making camping more accessible for everyone Next Caravan tales Next Dannevirke Holiday Park is making its facilities more accessible Next What a view to wake up to Next Danseys Pass Next From rugby to pets — How Covid19 started the tail wagging on HELPP VET Next Pippa in the hammock Next Planning to camp with your pet? Resources Next My day at the Ellesmere A&P Show Next The Slow Road Next My day at Ferrymead Next NZ Cheese Festival Next A long weekend on the Waikato River Next Safe toilet chemicals Next The fairy forest walk Next Teeming at Terako Downs Next Terako Downs entrance Next Up, up the Waiorongomai Valley Next Favourite and quick camping meals Next Alice cooking dinner on the BBQ Next Heating a pie Next Ordinary cycle Next Fishing in the snow Next Trying out my new quilt Next GAME: DOC campsites 4: Lower North Island Next HOBBIES: Disc golf Next Stop and Stay: City dwellers: 2nd camp: more adventurous Next Lake Poaka Next Rays Rest Next DOC update Next Uretiti Next King’s Birthday camp at Kekerengu Next Foxton Beach Next Three nights at Conway Flats Next Fantastic time at the Onearo campground Next Come camping Next Festivals Next The All Points Camping Club of NZ Next A summer of content: editorial Next Councils & Government Camping in Tairāwhiti this summer Read But I am not freedom camping… Read This is the summer to visit Queenstown Read Getting your camping vehicle certified Read Thornbury-Aparima Bridge Reserve Read Being able to get out into nature Read Making camping more accessible for everyone Read Dannevirke Holiday Park is making its facilities more accessible Read Safe toilet chemicals Read A summer of content: editorial Read Self-containment & Freedom Camping Camping in Tairāwhiti this summer Read Freedom camping news Read Self-containment warrant cards: Which ones are valid? Read But I am not freedom camping… Read This is the summer to visit Queenstown Read Getting your camping vehicle certified Read Thornbury-Aparima Bridge Reserve Read Being able to get out into nature Read Making camping more accessible for everyone Read Caravan tales Read Safe toilet chemicals Read View More

We visited New Zealand’s smallest church. BUY PDF CONTENTS Spring 2023 ISSUE 5 Up The smallest church Margaret Earle We visited New Zealand’s smallest church which is just south of Dargaville. The grounds around it have some interesting curiosities. Photos ©2023 Margaret Earle Up Up Up Click on the gallery for a full size view smallest-1.webp smallest-3.webp smallest-5.webp smallest-1.webp 1/7

Winter 2025 ISSUE 12 BUY PDF ToC Click on image for full view and caption apc_H_bluff-farm-gather-awning-24.webp GO TO CHILLY CHILLY CHILLY OUT THERE The All Points Camping Club of NZ ALL POINTS CAMPING CLUB of NZ We are proud to sponsor this issue of Camping the Kiwi Way Brought to you by NZ’s inclusive, friendly, camping club, for your reading pleasure. Family membership to the All Points Camping Club gives you: ✶ Membership support ✶ Friendly, inclusive camping events ✶ Nationwide savings ✶ Lobbying support for campers’ rights. You don’t have to have a self-contained vehicle to join. You don’t have to be a member to come to our events. It’s more than just a club, it’s like one big family. Come along to one of our events near you.Bring the tent, bring the kids. Image: ©2024 Margaret Earle Join now only $35NZ’s national camping club Join here: www.allpointscampingnz.org ✶ When the benefits far exceed the cost you’d be crazy not to take it up. ✶ Our values: compassion, inclusion, support and encouragement Top image: Motukarara, Canterbury. ©2022 Linda Butler. Up Up 12 Winter 2025 , p 40

1 Spring 2022 1 Spring 2022 BUY AUTHOR INDEX AUTHORS Click on image for full view and caption ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures Te Rātā Bay, Lake Tarawera ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures Te Rātā Bay, Lake Tarawera ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures Preparing to cook in the ground We planned our evening meals to be cooked in the ground and loved putting them in each morning. ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures Cooking in the ground The best part was the no-stress cooking approach. ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures Just a little longer We were amazed by how great they were in the evenings. ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures Carrying the food back to camp ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures The camp Te Rātā Bay, Lake Tarawera ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures tarawera_4416.jpg We spent the day watching families arrive and set up. ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures Te Rātā Bay, Lake Tarawera Jetskiiing ©2022 NZ Fun Adventures We planned our evening meals to be cooked in the ground Te Rātā Bay, Lake Tarawera Jonathan Collins We started our trip leaving Wellington at 4am sharp. The journey was great, avoiding all holiday traffic, and we made short work of the 5-hour drive towing our jetski up to Lake Tarawera. We transferred our camping gear into our ski and welcomed our friends from South Africa who joined us for Easter as we helped get everyone on the water safely. What we could not fit on the skis we had the local water taxi service bring over to our camping spot. This is a well-run service, and their friendly helpful approach makes it fun. We left the ramp at 11am and had flat water all the way, arriving to the beauty that is Te Rātā Bay (Hot Water Beach). We were the 1st to be at the DOC-run campground and had our tent and site set up within about an hour. The facilities are great there with toilets and a kitchen area to use if needed. Planning is essential as there is no fresh running water there so you do need to take everything with you. We spent the day watching families arrive and set up. We went on walks and explored the area around the camp, which is full of walking tracks. We planned our evening meals to be cooked in the ground and loved putting them in each morning and were amazed by how great they were in the evenings. The best part was the no-stress cooking approach. Our trip was full of swimming in the thermal-warmed water around the lake, jetskiing, exploring, meeting fellow family campers, fishing, diving, hiking, watching sunsets and relaxing in the great outdoors. We highly recommend this as a spot to visit — its affordable and jam-packed with things to do. It's an annual destination for our family now. BY: Jono Collins PHOTOS: ©2022 Jono Collins - [DOC info](/doc-pass) Up Up 1 Spring 2022 , p 7

4 Winter 2023 Winter 2023 ISSUE 4 BUY PDF CONTENTS Up I am on track Andrew Morton Up I am on track with my original goal of 100 nights per year & mountain bike as much as I can in other regions. Teardrop. © 2023 Andrew Morton Up Up 1/0 ISSN 2815-827X (Online) | ISSN:2815-8261 (Print) editor@campingthekiwiway.org

10 summer 2024 10 summer 2024 BUY AUTHOR INDEX AUTHORS Click on image for full view and caption I’ve met a nice group of friends, who mix happily and include everyone STOP and STAY Teeming at Terako Downs Julie Adam — the Kite Lady Not bothering much about the forecast warning for rain over Labour Weekend, I loaded up the camper, with clothes, food and my two dogs, and off we went to Terako Downs. The roaring rivers on the drive up through the Amuri region suggested that there had been quite a bit of rain in the mountains, but the sun was shining and it was going to be a long weekend with gorgeous views and good people. Terako Downs is situated in North Canterbury on the Inland Road between Waiau and Kaikōura. This is one of my favourite drives. There are no villages or shops en route, just mixed-use farmland, braided rivers and mountains. From Waiau, the road is a little hilly and windy with some tight corners, but well signposted — as long as you know 25kph means go really slow! After Mt Lyford, the scenery opens up, with views across big open river valleys, before arriving at the coast just south of Kaikōura, where the sea goes out to the horizon. Terako Downs is only 18km from Waiau, just south of the Mt Lyford Village. If you’re coming from Kaikōura, the trip is 64km, which takes about an hour. I hadn’t been to the Terako Downs site before, and was really looking forward to it. It is clearly signposted on the road, with a gate leading into a rambling grassy site (no hard stands, but good firm ground, even after all the rain), with trees, quirky fences and bridges over a drain to navigate. It’s not all level, but there’s plenty of level ground. There’s bush and birdsong around, as well as chickens and, to my dogs’ delight, feral rabbits! Below the campsite is a river with a swimming hole, which would be fabulous in summer — but we weren’t ready for that this Labour Weekend. Robins ©2024 Debbie Tutton ©2024 Tony Knights. Vans, motorhomes and people of all shapes and sizes arrived over the Friday, and, after setting up camp, we all gathered under the shade of a large gazebo and outdoor covered area by an old corrugated iron barn, which was the campsite ‘clubrooms’. Exploring inside this building was a delight, with a kitchen area (microwave and electric kettle), plenty of armchairs, table and chairs, and a big log burner keeping the space very toasty. There was a door leading through to another bigger space. The building, inside and out, was filled with an eclectic collection of memorabilia, creating a fun museum — clearly reflective of our wonderful hosts’ (Fritz and Debbie) personalities and lives. ©2024 Jo Robinson As the sun went down, the fairy lights in the trees and on fences came on, creating a fun and colourful outlook in the darkness — although most of us were gathered around the fire inside, where the chatter and stories went on until bedtime. Saturday brought rain, so most of us gathered around the fire again or laid low in our own spaces doing the things we like to do. A few brave souls with dogs attached the leads, and went off along the road, or down through the paddocks to explore. Some campers even headed off to Kaikōura for the day to check out the shops and restaurants. Back at my camper after our morning walk, the dogs dried out on the bed and watched the other campers through the windows (Dog TV!), while I spent time with an audiobook and knitting. On Saturday night, there was music. People brought guitars, ukuleles, tambourines, shakers and song sheets. A stage and sound system was set up and the extroverts performed — some even trying out a bit of line dancing. We all joined in and the rain on the roof kept up the rhythm. Sunday morning, and the sun came out glorious and warm — and to show a new river had appeared, where the day before there had been a dry drainage ditch running through the campsite. This provided a bit of entertainment as our host took off her trousers to get in and clear grass clippings blocking a pipe under one of the wee bridges to let the water clear. Out of the water, at least, the temperature wasn’t freezing! But the rain came back in the afternoon, and we retreated again to the fire. A screen and projector were set up where the music had been, and we were able to pick from a good variety of DVD movies. A great excuse to snuggle into a comfy chair with a blanket and sit back, knit and relax. The following morning brought sunshine again, and after a session under the gazebo to talk about our weekend and make our farewells, we all packed up at a leisurely pace and headed on to our next adventures, or to home. The All Points camping weekends I’ve attended so far have all been really friendly and laid back. I feel I’ve met a nice group of friends, who mix happily and include everyone. There’s always snacks and drinks shared and no time pressure. Linda seems to manage to include an extra treat, whether it’s a cream tea, or a pot luck meal, and ensures everyone is made welcome. I’m looking forward to the next one — and should be dried out by then! ◊ Trevor, a Cairn Terrier, trying to decide whether he needs to go out in the rain. ©2024 Julie Adam See the gallery for more images. Up Up 10 summer 2024 , p 35

3 Autumn 2023 3 Autumn 2023 BUY AUTHOR INDEX AUTHORS Click on image for full view and caption It is camper behaviour which makes you responsible, not the equipment you have in your vehicle If the law changes: Managing self-containment Bette Cosgrove From a small van to a large bus, there are thousands of commercially or home-built vehicles on our roads, providing travellers with all the necessary comforts of living. The goal is to be able to freedom camp in beautiful spots, to enjoy the outdoors, and stay for a while without needing to rely on an external water supply, waste disposal or cooking facilities. It requires creative thinking to fit in a basic kitchen, fresh water supply, as well as power, space for a toilet, grey and black water storage, sometimes a small fridge and, of course, a comfortable place to sleep. All of these facilities make the vehicle fit for the purpose of camping while travelling, and with them, a camper is self-contained. The number of days self-contained depends on the size of water and waste storage. Self-containment is a basic standard for any campervan builder, and this can be achieved either to suit the user, or to meet a set of standard criteria; or both. Currently what it means to be ‘self-contained’ is not defined in NZ law. Under the current law, you can camp in any vehicle or temporary structure in any area which is not prohibited or restricted, including a tent, caravan, motor home, or any form of vehicle with sleeping facilities. That is because responsible freedom camping does not rely on specific facilities you carry onboard. It is camper behaviour which makes you responsible, not the equipment you have in your vehicle. Changes to the law Thanks to inconsistent and sometimes confusing bylaws, the (2022) Minister, of Tourism Stuart Nash, decided to bring in a national self-containment standard. The Bill, presented to parliament in 2022, among other changes, would include a definition of a self-contained vehicle in national law. Vehicles would need to comply with a new set of technical regulations written by MBIE (Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment) in order to receive certificatation. (Ex-) Minister Nash’s obsession with the fixedness of toilets has been included in the proposed new law. He insists that portable chemical toilets should no longer be allowed to meet the needs of freedom campers. With a change of Minister, and the new law still being at the Select Committee stage (Feb 2023), we are in a time of uncertainty. Freedom camping approaches A ‘non self contained’ camper might use a roof-top tent on top of a car, a tiny teardrop camper, or be travelling by motorbike or bicycle, which will not have the space to accommodate a sink with water, grey water storage, and a chemical toilet. They can still be responsible and leave no trace in any freedom camping area. Self contained freedom camping, means in a vehicle which is designed and built for the purpose of camping, and has the capability of meeting the water and waste needs of the occupants for a minimum of three days without requiring any external services or discharging any waste. It may be set up creatively, to suit the user and be fit for purpose. Certified self containment (CSC) requires an inspection of the self-containment facilities inside the vehicle. The inspector certifies that it specifically meets New Zealand Standard 5465, and issues a self containment certificate and sticker to prove it is self contained to the standard. The certificate says how many people are covered: the more people the more water and waste is required. To comply you need: a toilet; adequate fresh water storage; adequate waste water storage, which is vented and protected from overflow; a sink fitted with a smell trap; and a sealable rubbish bin. This NZ Standard is currently unmonitored by a government department, and is, in legal terms, a voluntary standard. Of the 69 local authorities across New Zealand, only 38 have adopted the NZ Standard as their definition of self containment in their enforceable bylaws. Only in these areas must you be able to prove certification or risk a fine. MBIE estimates (they do not know, so are guessing) there are at least 68,000 certified self contained vehicles, and at least 15% of these may be using portable toilets with a further 55,000 vehicles readily converted into campers, or used for camping, most of which are likely to be using a porta-potty (portable toilet). For those who can’t meet the revised standard... The new Bill will render thousands of campers legally “not self contained,” even though they are still able to meet the water and waste needs of the occupants for a minimum of three days. The new Bill suggests local authorities can, if they choose, provide access to NZ’s public lands specifically for these travellers. There are only a small number of councils who currently allocate ‘non self contained’ overnight camping, usually in carparks alongside public toilets. Designating new spots would require a massive effort including site analysis, consultation and rewriting of any bylaws, costing both time and money. Even the Department of Conservation, tasked with giving NZers access to public conservation land, requires certification at many of their sites. Is there room? Modification to meet the “fixed toilet” standard will be impossible for smaller vehicles. While a portable toilet may be able to be stored under beds, or inside cupboards, then taken out an used whenever needed (as per the current Standard), a fixed toilet takes up space more intrusively. Can you afford it? The extra cost to fit a fixed toilet and associated plumbing may be prohibitive for most van builders. Compared to a perfectly adequate porta-potty costing up to $150 (easily cleaned and emptied at a dump station) MBIE research suggests that modification costs are $1200 to $5000 at the low end and $5000 to $30,000 at the high end. Effectively, the new Bill reduces the opportunity for thousands of NZers to freedom camp, either because of the size or style of their camping vehicle, or becasuse they are less affluent. Where to from here for the DIY campervan builder Anyone currently inspired to attempt a DIY campervan build is faced with challenging design decisions about the possible installation of a permanent toilet fixture, as there is uncertainty about potential changes to the law and the definition of what might comply in future. OPTION 1 Setting up the vehicle for a current CSC which meets the NZ Standard now, will give 2 years of use after any law changes: you would still be able to use your vehicle for freedom camping at CSC-restricted sites until 2025 (when the proposed changes come into force). This gives time to consider options for a retro-fit or change to potentially new products which may meet the toilet standards in future. OPTION 2 Hold off on toilet facility decisions until the new regulations become clear. The Select Committee is due to report on this bill March 2023. It still has to go through Parliament after that. OPTION 3 If space and budget allows, look at fitting a cassette-style toilet with a permanently fixed base, which is likely to comply. Fingers crossed. Remember there is no suggestion of a separate cubicle/room for the toilet; nor a need for a shower. Camping responsibly 2023-style Whatever happens with the law, or not, it is important you are ‘self-contained’ and can leave no trace, for your own comfort, health and safety. If you want to stay on local authority land restricted by bylaws, certifying your set-up gives that extra freedom and is a future-proofing move. There are several authorised inspection services available to certify prior to any law changes later in 2023. Check the business listings in this magazine or online ( North Island | South Island ) , and shop around for someone who seems helpful, sensible and well-informed on the correct, current requirements. See also What’s in a name? Feeedom camping bylaws Waiting on a law change Up Up 3 Autumn 2023 , p 19

10 summer 2024 10 summer 2024 BUY AUTHOR INDEX AUTHORS Click on image for full view and caption bring the tent, bring the kids The All Points Camping Club of NZ ALL POINTS CAMPING CLUB of NZ We are proud to sponsor this issue of Camping the Kiwi Way Brought to you by NZ’s inclusive, friendly, camping club, for your reading pleasure. Family membership to the All Points Camping Club gives you: ✶ Membership support ✶ Friendly, inclusive camping events ✶ Nationwide savings ✶ Lobbying support for campers’ rights. You don’t have to have a self-contained vehicle to join. You don’t have to be a member to come to our events. It’s more than just a club, it’s like one big family. Come along to one of our events near you.Bring the tent, bring the kids. Image: ©2024 Margaret Earle Join now only $35NZ’s national camping club Join here: www.allpointscampingnz.org ✶ When the benefits far exceed the cost you’d be crazy not to take it up. ✶ Our values: compassion, inclusion, support and encouragement Top image: Motukarara, Canterbury. ©2022 Linda Butler. Up Up 10 summer 2024 , p 48

9 Spring 2024 Spring 2024 ISSUE 9 BUY PDF CONTENTS Click on image for full view and caption Athenree Hotsprings The two pools, swim (left), and soak (right). Note the mosaics on the walls. Photo: Athenree Hotsprings Athenree Hotsprings Note the huge murals on the walls. Photo: Athenree Hotsprings Athenree Hotsprings mosaics Kowhai and tui. Athenree Hotsprings mosaics Nikau, birds, and beach. The waves are mirrors, and change with the light, Athenree Hotsprings mosaics Shag, drying its wings. Closeup of one of the murals. Awakeri Springs Main pool The main pool is half covered by a canopy, so you can choose to be under cover or not. Child pool, behind, under the second canopy. Photo Awakeri Springs Awakeri Springs Walking over from the campsite. The valley is surrounded by trees. I had the pool to myself when I got up early to watch the dawn and listen to the dawn chorus from the warmth of the pool. ©2024 M Richardson Parked up at Awakeri Springs Togs and pool noodle hung out to dry ©2024 M Richardson Waikite hot springs One of the covered pools. Photo: Waikite hot springs Waikite hot springs: the open air pool Photo: Waikite hot springs Waikite hot springs, the cooling down race. ©2024 M Richardson Waikite hot springs: the walk to the spring The walk to the spring, is along an easy track and magical, through shifting drifts of steam which feed lush moss and ferns. Photo: Waikite hot springs The water bubbles up at the Waikite hot spring. I had to wait for gaps in the steam to see and photograph the boiling water as it rises from underground into the stream. ©2024 M Richardson Okoroire Hot Springs The path from the hotel, past the campground, down to the pools. Photo: Okoroire Hot Springs Hotel Okoroire Hot Springs My favourite pool is this one where you stand, surrounded by ferns, and feel the bubbles come up through the sandy floor and break on the surface around your chin. I haven’t come across another pool like it. Okoroire Hot Springs A hotter, shallower pool, with the paddling pool on its left, Okoroire Hot Springs Paddling pool with a foot-massage stone floor. Okoroire Hot Springs aerial view The first top dot is the actual campground. The second dot on the right marks the entrance to the campground. The third dot is the Hotel, where you have to check in, get the campground gate key and buy the pool pass key. Photo: Okoroire Hot Springs Hotel Waingaro Springs You can see the driveway at the bottom, This view is basically the view from the driveway, wher you can look down on the pools. The pool at the back in this photo is the hot one where you pick your temperature by where you sit. The left pool is large, adn you can swim lengths. The bottom right pool is the children's pool. Photo: Waingaro Springs Waingaro Springs From the campground, showing a campsite, the motels on the left, and looking down on the pools. ©2024 M Richardson Waitangi Soda Springs You can see the ramp and the steps leading you down into the heated stream. Photo off the internet. Waitangi Soda Springs THe sides of the stream are mown, and the banks have been edged. Photo from the internet. Wairakei Terraces This is a very upmarket pool. Lots of landscaping, and nicely done. There are so many pools you can pick your pool for both the temperature and for the view. Photo: Wairakei Terraces My six favourite hot pools. So far. North Island hot pool safari Miriam Richardson Wintering in the North Island, I decided to explore hot pools, building my own short-list of pools for an annual safari each winter. The variety of hot pools is a NZ treasure. There’s a free website that documents them all, free, commercial, private: nzhotpools.co.nz . I need company to explore the free ones, so most of these are campground pools. Here’s my six favourites, so far. Hot tip for hot pools: Scour the op shops for spare togs and towels. When you are having a dip multiple times a day in winter, it’s a blessing to have dry togs to put on. And yet another dry towel. Tip 2: always carry a water bottle with you. (Probably not glass.) Tip 3: a pool noodle lets you relax and float in the middle of the pool. Athenree athenreehotsprings.co.nz On the edge of the farther reaches of Tauranga harbour is Anthenree, a campground with two hot pools, one for soaking, one for swimming. The soak pool is 38.5–40˚C, the larger pool is cooler so you can swim lengths. There is fantastic mosaic artwork on the walls — you have to soak longer just to admire them all. The pools are closed overnight for cleaning, so no dawn- or star-watch soaking, but the public can’t join you until 10am. Its a an excellent and very pleasant campground with mature trees, an estuary view to the west, and has a small shop. There are powered and unpowered sites, tent sites, cabins and all the other facilities you expect in a campground. There are limited dog-friendly sites. They offer some off-season discounts. ■ Awakeri awakerisprings.co.nz Nestled in farmland a short drive from Whakatane, Awakeri has a lovely park with mature trees. The pools are partly covered (think both sun and rain), and there is a separate children’s pool (think peace). The changing rooms have heated-water floors, which feels so good, it’s worth changing there instead of walking across in your togs from the campervan. There are also cabins, motels, and tent sites, and a small shop. Its bit boggy in winter (choose your site with care). The main pool, 37–39ºC, has bore water with all its goodness, plus, sadly, chlorine (not that I noticed it) — you have to book a private pool (extra fee) to go chlorine-free. The main pool is big enough for swimming. The temperature varies depending on how far you are from the inlet. I loved soaking in the dark and watching the stars come out, and listening to the dawn chorus from the warmth of the pool. ■ Togs and pool noodle hung out to dry Waikite hotpools.co.nz Well off the main road, surrounded by farmland is the Waikite hot springs. You can walk up the valley to see, through the steam clouds, the boiling water bubbling up. Above the pools is a long shallow cooling-down race (right), bringing the water to people-safe temperatures, 36–41˚C. There are a range of pools with different temperatures, different views, and different covers. You can be under the sun, in the shade or protected from the rain. I love the range of pool choices here. There is a cafe. There are powered and unpowered overnight parks and tent sites. The prices have skyrocketed recently, so do you research as you make your plans. The water feels fantastic. Being able to choose your pool and your view is lovely. The depths within some pools vary, so you can pick a perfect spot: having some skin in the cool air can extend your soak time. There is a large, swimmable pool, as well as soaking pools. The walk to the spring, is along an easy track (above) and magical, through shifting drifts of steam which feed lush moss and ferns. I had to wait for gaps in the steam to see (and photograph, left) the boiling water as it rises from underground into the stream. ■ Okoroire okohotel.co.nz My favourite pool (above) is the one where you stand, surrounded by ferns, and feel the bubbles come up through the sandy floor and break on the surface around your chin. I haven’t come across another pool like it. The Okoroire Hot Springs Hotel and pools are on the banks of the Waihou river, not far from Matamata, in the Waikato. A pathway (below) wends its way from the hotel, past the camp to the springs , which have been dug into the river bank, and are surrounded by ferns and trees. Buy a key card at the hotel to get through the locked gate. There is a changing room. The pools, vary in heat and depth, and includes paddling pools (bottom, to the left of the pool), which has a foot-massage stone floor. Like other natural springs, the water temperature can vary. The pools are generally from 37–38˚C. The Okoroire Hot Springs Hotel controls the small campground down the road from the hotel (red arrows: grounds, entrance, hotel). This is not obvious from their website. Talk to them when making your plans. When I stayed, access to the pools was included with the overnight fee, but I believe now you must buy a day pass. The campground is a second string for the hotel, and rather basic. The ground was a bit soft when I was there in winter, and the big trees are lovely but not helpful for solar. ■ Waingaro waingarohotsprings.co.nz It was the people and the water that put this hotspring on my favourite list. A rolling rural drive 24 km to the east of Ngāruawāhia in the Waikato, brings you to Waingaro Springs, with hot pools, camp sites, a motel, and, next door, an old hotel that provides takeaways as well as meals and drinks. The facilities are old-school and tired, but the water is marvellous, and there is a pool where you can choose your heat by simply choosing where in the pool you sit. Perfect. Too hot? Move right. Need a hot hot top up? Move to the left. The long pool is cool enough to swim lengths. Temperatures vary from 37–41˚C. There’s a children’s pool, (and up the hill a looooong water slide. They say. I wasn’t tempted). I measure the water quality by its effect on my skin: this one is fantastic. I was there on a Friday night when local and not so local families gathered in the pools. My guess is that this is a regular gathering. Families brought food, and the covered area was perfect for cooking on the BBQ and gathering to eat. Some got takeaways from the hotel next door. There were babies, teens and grandparents and everyone in between. As the cars arrived, they would pause on the driveway, looking down on the pool, calling greetings, before heading for the carpark. People gathered and regathered in groups to catch up on the news, a shifting kaleidoscope of talk, that kept me, as a solo hot-soaker well entertained, and actually thrilled that such community hot-spots still exist and flourish. I will plan a future visit for Friday and Saturday night, in hope of more entertaining soaking. With a long vehicle, I had to go to the very top of the hill to find a park big enough, and the water pressure up there meant a slow fill. The parks look down on the pools (below). The only down side from my point of view was no internet or mobile coverage— that was a few years ago. Now, the maps indicate that 4g mobiles, and rural broadband via a 4g aerial have coverage. ■ Waitangi Soda Springs ckw.nz/about-soda This was the only totally natural spring I visited on my safari. Two thermal springs rise and join with a cool stream. You enter the stream to soak. Some of the stream bank edges have been walled, steps and ramps are provided, and the grassy banks are mowed. There is a toilet and a changing room. The water is not very deep, and the temperature varies, so you can pick your spot and your view to suit. It feels wonderful, the real thing. The springs have been used for hundred of years for healing, recreation and teaching. Night time gatherings provided the opportunity to teach the new generation about the stars and the seasons in the comfort of a long warm soak. The springs are still managed by the local iwi, and there is a small entry fee. There is no overnight camping at the springs, but there is a freedom camping area at the eastern end of Lake Rotomā, not far away. ■ Wairakei Terraces wairakeiterraces.co.nz This is a very upmarket hot pool venue. Just north of Taupo, it is beautifully landscaped to create a different view from every spot, and with a full range of temperatures, it’s not hard to spend a day meandering from pool to pool. It’s open until after dark (though closes earlier in winter) with a variety of lighting effects. Great water, great soak. I bought a ticket off grabone.co.nz , at not quite half the price of buying at the door, and for a soaking session it’s a good deal either way. As you cannot camp at this venue its a single session for the fee. There are changing rooms, a cafe onsite, and you can take a picnic lunch and a book with you, if you want to make a day of it (it’s a pity there aren‘t lockers). There is good parking, including for long vehicles, over the road. For a small extra fee you can take a walk around the geothermal terraces. There are couple of freedom camping spots not too far away, one at the Aratiatia Dam (see p33) to the north and the other at Reid’s Farm/Hipapatua to the south. ◼️ Up Up 9 Spring 2024 , p 27